SEWN: Vintage 1950’s Style White Bustier (Simplicity 8130)

Well well well, it’s August now and here I am, writing about the first item I just checked off my 2019 #MakeNine list. When I first talked about my Make Nine plans for 2019, I was certain that I was NOT going to finish what I planned out to make. No, I am not a defeatist. I am just a realist who accepts the fact that life is unpredictable and things don’t always go as planned.

I had an unexpected change in living arrangements earlier this year and had to find a new apartment unit to rent. Finding a new place to stay and setting up my sewing space again meant taking some time off from sewing. But this also provided me with time to reorganise and helped me to learn to really prioritise what I need to sew.

Gwen posing on the beach in the white bustier she made. She is pairing the white bustier with a red sarong. Gwen posing on the beach in the white bustier she made. She is pairing the white bustier with a red sarong.In the last few months, I have embarked on several refashion projects like my collaboration with Swapaholic and my personal #Gwerkclothes project (check hashtag on Instagram for details). Refashioning is easier to do than sewing from scratch because I don’t need to be too precise with cutting my fabric, and was a way for me to get back into the rhythm of sewing after the break.

I also decided to prioritise making a new pjs for myself because all my other pjs are becoming so worn from repeated daily wear! My first version of the Fifi pjs, which is kind of meant to be a wearable muslin, is completed and I will be taking some time to take some proper photos of the set soon.

The facts

This vintage 1950’s style white bustier top was completed at the start of year because I desperately needed a white bustier top to add to my vintage style wardrobe. I have always struggled to find a bustier that fits me, and when I got my hands on the Simplicity 8130 pattern, I knew I was going to finally make a bustier for myself.

Honestly, I don’t know why it has taken me so long to finally get down to making my own bustier. Other than trying to find the right pattern, I think I was also daunted by the need for me to learn to insert boning. It’s silly because when I finally did it, I was surprised at how easy it is!

The fabric (and other materials)

I made this bustier using a white “linen” that I purchased during my holiday in Krabi. This is the same fabric that I used for my 1950’s pullover dress. I say that with the quotations because I had done a burn test with the fabric and found that it really is a poly-linen mix. The lining for inserting my bust paddings is another a red gingham polyblend from another project I completed (more on that in another post). I thought the idea of using a different fabric for the lining would be cute because it gives the final garment a more interesting look.

The boning I used is some discounted, flexible plastic boning I bought from Spotlight years ago. Basically, this bustier is made from some really cheap materials because it was just meant to be a wearable muslin.

adding bias tape for boning

Adding bias tape for boning

Adding gingham fabric for inserting removable bra paddings

Adding gingham fabric for inserting removable bra paddings

The fit (and some modifications)

The first time I put the bustier on, I thought I had just made the most perfect bustier top for myself. But when I started wearing it during my vacation in Koh Samui, I realised that I probably should have done a small bust adjustment to it so that the centre of the bustier lies closer to my skin. You can see the red gingham peeking out at times in the photos. I can play beach volleyball in this bustier without any fear of endangering my modesty, but the perfectionist in me keeps paying attention to that 2cm gap between my skin and the centre topmost point of the bustier. Am I crazy?

Regardless of that gaps, I still think that this bustier has a pretty good fit overall, considering that made a few omissions in this wearable muslin. I omitted the use of interfacing and the boning on the back bodice. I didn’t think that I needed something that feels stiff like a corset when I plan to have this as part of casual wear.

The other thing I changed when making my own bustier with this pattern was to add the extra gingham lining on the inside for the purpose of adding some removable bra paddings. With this additional design feature, I feel confident going braless in this bustier. My lack of assets means that I can never have that 1950’s bombshell look that I want but I always get around it with a little help from a couple of sponges.

A back view of the white bustier top

Final thoughts

Now that I have gotten over the fear of using boning in a garment, the next element that I am going to include in my next version of the S8130 bustier is shirring along a segment of the back bodice. Many of the vintage 1950’s bathing suits and playsuits have this design feature to enhance the fit of the garment. I wonder if an SBA alone will solve the issue of the 2cm gap between my skin and the centre of the garment but I think I would also like a little bit of give for a fitted garment made with a non-stretch woven fabric like this. I know from experience with my Simplicity 1426 (Hawaiian, Pineapple, Gingham versions) that sneezing (and sometimes breathing) could be painful when THERE IS NO ROOM for my ribs to expand.

Gwen smiling and showing off her handmade white bustier top on a beachAll in all, this is a pretty decent pattern for a petite gal like me. I can’t wait to get my final PERFECT bustier pattern after some additional modifications. I already have plans to use this pattern in an upcoming sewing project – a 1950’s prom style gown made with a gorgeous starburst tulle from Minerva Crafts!

Have you tried this pattern? What are some of the fit issues and what modifications did you have to do?

 

SEWN: REFASH! A collaboration with Swapaholic


A couple of months ago, Swapaholic got in touch with me with the exciting opportunity to collaborate for their “Reimagine” swap party in July 2019. They sent me a bag of second-hand clothes collected from previous swaps, and my only brief was to embark on 3 different refashion transformations. Well, what a treat!

Some of the clothes were damaged and rejected for swaps, while some of them were still in good condition but somehow not picked up in the previous swaps. Regardless of the condition, I was in love with the choice of colours and fabrics that the second-hand pieces provided. You know me – I’m always ready to turn something old into something new again!

 

REFASHION #1: 1950’s style gingham set

The pick
I decided to use this gingham blouse for one of the refashion projects because .. gingham, duh. Well ok, not just that. This blouse is a great choice for a refashion project because the design of the blouse (with the extra large ruffle along the neckline and the long sleeves in particular) and its larger size mean that I will have ample yardage to play with for creating something new.
The idea
I knew I would have enough fabric for a separate top and bottom. To make things easy for me, I decided to make a simple skirt with an elasticised waist. The embroidered flowers were a design feature I wanted to keep in the final garment, so I decided to make a simple gathered skirt with the embroidered flowers along the bottom hem of the skirt. Other than sewing the sides together, sewing an elastic casing and inserting the elastic, I didn’t have to do much to make the skirt.

 

For the top, I decided to make a tube top using shirring elastic because shirred tops seem to be so “on trend” these days. They keep popping up on my feed! Anyway, I have been meaning to try to use shirring elastic so I thought this would be a great opportunity for me to start.

 

With the remaining pieces of fabric I had, I decided to make a long strip of fabric that can be used in many different ways. In my photos, you will see me using it as: 1) a headscarf, 2) a faux top for a vintage-inspired halter look, 3) a “belt”. I’m always thinking about outfit yield when it comes to sewing! I’m sure there are more ways I can wear the scarf so keep your eyes peeled, I might end up with 10 (or even more) looks by the end of the year.
But for now, I can already think of 7 different ways I can wear this refashion project and I think that’s pretty rad.
The final garment
And these are the final looks!

Wearing: handmade necklace, refashioned shirred tube top, refashioned skirt

 

Wearing: refashioned top and scarf for faux halter look, refashioned skirt, thrifted earrings

 

Wearing: high street earrings, refashioned shirred tube top, vintage Wranglers jeans

 

Wearing: refashioned headscarf, me-made white bustier top, vintage Wrangler jeans

 

Wearing: refashioned shirred tube top, refashioned scarf as belt, refashioned skirt, second-hand basket, earrings from a clothes swap with Swapaholic

 

Wearing: refashioned shirred tube top, refashioned skirt, refashioned headscarf tied in a bow, thrifted earrings, Tahitian kukui necklace

 

Wearing: me-made white bustier top, elastic belt (that I had since I was a teen), vintage bracelet, refashioned skirt

 

REFASHION #2: The cha-cha skirt

The pick
Another type of garment that is great for a refashion project is a maxi dress or maxi skirt. Similar to a larger garment, the added length of a maxi dress or skirt can provide additional yardage for refashioning. When I saw these 2 bright dresses, I knew they were perfect for my next refashion transformation. The bright orange and dramatic fuchsia just seem to go so well together! Also, the fuchsia dress came with a lining in the same fabulous colour, which meant that I really had a lot of yardage to work with for this refashion project.

 

The idea
 When it comes to thinking about how to execute a refashion project, I often try to make the sewing as simple as possible. The idea of cutting the dresses up into long strips of rectangles, then joining them up to make ruffles just came to me immediately. Also, because the colours of these dresses are so vibrant, I wanted to use that to my advantage and create a final garment with a design that is as eye-catching as these colours. And so, I made a tiered ruffle skirt with alternating colours for each layer that is reminiscent of the style of a cha-cha skirt.

 

The final garment
And now, here are some photos of the skirt in action!

Wearing: me-made white bustier top, belt (that I had since I was a teen), vintage bracelet


 

REFASHION #3: The basic pencil skirt


The pick
This oversized grey jersey dress became a natural candidate for my next project because of its colour and its material. Jersey knits are great to work with for a refashion project because the stretch it has offers more room for error in the cutting and fitting of the final garment.

 

The idea
Again, I’m all about thinking simply when it comes to refashioning. The idea of making a semi-fitted pencil skirt with an elasticised waist came to me because I wanted a skirt with a classic silhouette and neutral colour to add to my wardrobe. To make this skirt, all I did was chop the length of the dress off, sew an elastic casing, insert the elastic casing, and taper the width of the skirt as needed with straight stitches lengthwise. This refashion project was completed in less than 30 minutes!

 

The final garment
Here’s how the pencil skirt looks in action. I am pairing it with a cut-up t-shirt that I was actually wearing at home on the day that I was sewing this. They happen to pair nicely so I figured I would just style the skirt with the top for a “street fashion” look.

And there you have it, all 3 refashion projects that I did recently in collaboration with Swapaholic. If you’re located in Singapore, love fashion and want to be more sustainable, why not consider swapping instead of shopping? Swapaholic hosts regular swap parties at various parts of Singapore and they always have a great selection of styles! The next swap will be held on 7th September at Marina Barrage. Keep your eyes peeled on my posts on Instagram because I will be sharing a code for sign-up on Monday (29th July).
I hope you have enjoyed reading about my creative thought process behind these refashion projects. Which one is your favourite?

SEWN: Blue Hawaiian Honeymoon Set

And this is it! It has taken me over 2 years but this Blue Hawaiian honeymoon set is finally completed.

Two years ago in 2017, inspired by vintage Hawaiian honeymoon sets, I made a pair of matching shirt and shorts for Steven (aka my Instagram husband and now real-life husband) and myself respectively for our engagement party back at his hometown in Houston, Texas. Right from the very start, I had always planned to make a matching set of bra top and shorts for myself using the same fabric. I managed to finish the matching bra top for myself around the end of 2018 but never had the chance to wear it out. In my head, I wanted to “save” it for our next beach holiday together.

Houston, TX (2017)

Then, after being married for more than 6 months, we finally had the time to take a vacation together. We took a mini holiday in Koh Samui and got the chance to wear our special me-made Blue Hawaiian honeymoon set together!

Koh Samui, Thailand (2019)

The facts

His shirt: McCall 6044

Can you spot the pocket on the shirt?

This is a basic shirt pattern by McCall that I recommend everyone to get if you are starting out with sewing men’s shirt. It’s very straightforward and easy to sew.

I struggled with the fit for this pattern at the start ONLY because Steven has a neck that is around size L and a torso that is around size M. So, at the end of the day, even after trying to make my own adjustments to the pattern, this shirt has a collar that he won’t be able to button up. I guess it doesn’t matter so much since no one buttons up the collar of a summer shirt anyway!

Her shorts: Self-drafted

This is a pair of high-waisted shorts that I made using a pattern I drafted myself. Many vintage shorts and trousers have a centre-back zipper entry, so I wanted that for my shorts to have a more authentic vintage look. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to run out to get regular zipper when I was finishing the shorts and ended up using an invisible zipper that I had in my stash. So, at the end of the day, I lost the true vintage aesthetics. Well, that’s ok. I still love the way centre-back zipper fits and feels!

Her top: Simplicity 1426 (View B)

I have made this pattern in View A and View C, and I can tell you that View B is the version that fits my petite frame best! Similar to my version of View C, I sewed foam pads between the main piece and the lining to give my girls a perkier look.

To prevent my arms from getting all sore while fumbling with the buttons in the back, I decided that using hooks would be an easier way to put the top on. It’s worked out pretty well!

The fabric

I bought this fabric from Chinatown in Singapore and it has the Sevenberry label on the selvedge. It also came in different colourways like orange, red, and green. I was soooooo tempted to buy more of this print in red so I could make a matching Alfred Shaheen-inspired dress for myself! Alas, I decided to be more prudent with my fabric purchases and abandoned that idea.

Oddly enough, I can’t seem to find this same fabric online, so I am sorry if you are wondering where I bought the fabric! Sevenberry seems to have a pretty decent selection of Hawaiian-print fabrics if you are interested in having a look.

Some final thoughts

I think it’s safe to say that this is not the only me-made matching set that I will be making for my husband and I! Have you made a matching set for yourself and your significant other? Are you Team Match or Team Retch when it comes to making coordinating outfits? xx

SEWN: Refashioned Summer Belle Dress (1980s look to 1950s style!)

The background

Since August 2018, I have been trying to declutter and downsize the things I own. I have a HUGE collection of vintage dresses from over the years. A big bunch of them are 1970s and 1980s clothes from my early years into vintage and from my previous trips to Hong Kong. I have been trying to sell them at a decent price on Instagram and Etsy, but I am also painfully aware of the fact that I may not be able to sell all of them in the timeframe that I have in mind.

The original vintage 1980’s yellow dress

There’s a particular yellow dress that I have a soft spot for – a 1980s dress with puffed sleeves and a beautiful circle skirt. I have always been a fan of the sleeves and the skirt, but didn’t think the bodice was too great. I made myself a promise – if it didn’t sell by the start of February 2019, I would cut it up and make myself something “new” to wear for Chinese New Year.

Alas, it didn’t sell.

The design

When I decided to cut the dress up, I had a few ideas in my head but no concrete plan for the final design. It’s hard to have a very definite plan for a refashioned project because I need to know the amount of fabric I have to work with, and I can really only tell after I have started cutting the pieces up. However, for this project, I was sure that I wanted to work the look around keeping the hemmed circle skirt and the puffed sleeves.

Originally, I thought I would do a shirred back with some shirring elastic I have, but then after cutting the bodice up and removing the lining, I realised it wouldn’t make sense to have a shirred bodice and that it would be easier to just make a basic peasant style blouse.

The bodice
Gwenstella Made Refashioned Summer Belle Dress 1980s 1950s vintage

front vs back view

With the zipper and lining removed, I sewed the back centre-seam together on the machine. Then, I cut the neckline to make a scooped neckline and trimmed the bottom hem of the bodice to straighten it.

cut skirt from bodice, removed zipper and lining from bodice

cut scoop neck and trimmed bottom hem of bodice

After that, I finished the cut edges with a small zig-zag stitch (with moderate tension) for a clean finish. Finally, I folded down along the edges of the neckline and the bottom hem to make a casing for the elastic.

finished edges with zig-zag stitches, made elastic casing

The skirt

lining is from original dress

The skirt was a pretty easy make. All I had to do was to make an elastic casing around the waist!

The final look

After completing the bodice and the skirt, there was still the little piece of fabric left from the faux cowl of the original vintage dress. I didn’t want to waste that fabric, so I decided to make some roses with them! The leaves of the roses are made with some green felt I had lying in my box of sewing supplies. I sewed some brooch pin on the leaves and then glued the leaves onto the back of the roses. I didn’t want to sew the roses directly onto the bodice because I want this blouse + skirt to have a more versatile look (i.e. not just one look).

Making the roses turned out to be such a great decision!

This blouse and skirt set has turned out to be such a great match to my “Pineapple of my Eye” set. I think I have just expanded a summer capsule wardrobe by accident. I will be mixing and matching my looks with them for the rest of the month, so keep an eye out for the outfits I will be posting on my Instagram (@gwenstellamade).

I hope you’ve enjoyed looking through the process of this refashioned project. Tell me what you think about this look in the comments section! x Gwen

SEWN/RESTYLED: Country Road Dress (2011 make)

You know the funny thing about time? Time changes people.

It’s been several years since I started sewing and I think I have changed a lot since the time I started creating with my Elna Sew Fun for the first time. My style has evolved and my skills have advanced (even if it’s just for a little bit).

Back in 2011, I shared my “vintage-inspired Country Road dress”. As I proudly wrote in my original blog post, it’s the 4th thing I had ever sewn. Ah those early years!

The original “Country Road” dress from 2011

Fast forward to 2018, many of the clothes I made during my first years of sewing have ended up being stored away in the dark corners of my wardrobe, neglected and forgotten. As I move towards trying to be more thoughtful and deliberate in the things that I make, I have also begun to think about all the things I have made and forgotten.

The original design made using New Look 6824

Obviously, I stopped wearing these items for a reason. For example, this dress that I made back in 2011 using New Look 6824 is no longer my current size, and no longer the length that I like going for these days. Also, I didn’t mention it in the original blog post, but I have always been unhappy with the way the neckline sits on my bust. The corners are kinda creased because I unknowingly clipped too much of the seam allowance away.

I had a little more than 0.25m of this green+purple gingham fabric stashed away for the longest time, and one day it dawned on me that I had to do something about this little piece of fabric and this forgotten piece of work. Moreover, I needed to sew a muslin for the bodice of my modified version of the Butterick 5209 (B5209) sewing pattern for my wedding dress. If I could: a) get a “new” casual day dress of out of this, b) revive my old dress, and c) use my fabric stash – WHY NOT.

So, here’s how I made my old dress into a new dress:

  1. Removed back centre zipper and unstitched bodice from skirt
  2. Lined bra pads with fabric from old bodice
  3. Make the sleeveless version of the B5209 with the remaining 0.25m of the original gingham fabric with the following modifications
    • sized down to my measurements
    • left the halter design open for addition of straps for a halter tie-back design
  4. Drafted the halter straps with a coordinating purple fabric and stitched them on
  5. Added the new B5209 bodice on the old New Look 6824 skirt (also resized the waist) with a side zipper and bra pads inserted – I had to make sure the bra pads were lined because the gingham cotton is kinda sheer
  6. Chopped off a portion of the bottom of the skirt and added a short width of the coordinating purple fabric to lengthen the skirt

New version of the dress: Front view

New version of the dress: Interior view

And that’s it! I thought I had more photos of the process taken but somehow I didn’t have them saved on my phone. I think everyone enjoyed the process photos in the last blog post so I will make sure I have the process photos taken for easier visualisation in the future!

I really think adding straps for a halter back-tie design is a great hack for the 1950’s style Retro Butterick 5209 pattern. You can also try adding a tapered pencil skirt or a quarter skirt like I did for this dress for several different looks!

Let me know what you think about this simple refashioned project. Also, how does everyone else cope with the handmade items that you have “grown out of” (either size-wise or style-wise)?

SEWN: Pineapple of my Eye (1950’s inspired weekend wardrobe)

Gwenstella Made Vintage Style 1950s Pineapple Holiday Wardrobe

Gwenstella Made Vintage Style 1950s Pineapple Holiday Wardrobe

Two weeks ago, I was in Sri Lanka for a short week-long vacation and finally got the chance to bust out my Gwenstella Made retro 1950’s style pineapple holiday set! Making and owning a vintage inspired weekend wardrobe has always been a dream of mine, and it’s finally happened after many months of planning and sewing. Creating weekend wardrobes is the real reason why I often buy a generous amount of yardage for a specific fabric I really like, or why I buy fabric from the same design series. Remember the Country Garden Dress and the Country Garden Skirt? I just love being able to coordinate and mix-and-match all the pieces in my wardrobe!

If you follow me on Instagram (@gwenstellamade), you will know that I have been working on this set since 2017. Yes, it took me the whole of 2017 to complete the set, but I enjoyed every part of the process.

This weekend wardrobe set is pretty basic. It consists of a full circle skirt, a pair of high-waisted shorts, and a classic bra top, and here are the details of each item:

Convertible Bra Top:

Pattern: Simplicity 1426, View C
Details:

  • with bra pads sewn into lining
  • with bias strip sewn along top of lining to conceal white lining that was peeking out from the front
  • white organic cotton lining

1 top, 2 straps, 3 different styles!

This is the second bra top I have made using Simplicity 1426. The first one was the green gingham version. This version is much trickier than the green gingham one I made. Hot tip: Don’t use a white lining. The pattern stated “lining”, but really, I think I should have just used the same fabric as the rest of the top. The white lining was peeking out from the top middle portion of the top and I had to hand-sew a self-made bias tape along the inside of the upper edge of the lining to conceal the white lining. This was what killed my motivation a little and got this entire set placed on hiatus mode initially.

Bias tape hand-sewn along the upper edge to conceal the white lining, and bra pads sewing between the main fabric and lining

Regardless, I pulled myself together and completed the top in good time. This classic mid-century design is definitely a must-have in any mid-century style fashionista’s wardrobe. The BEST thing about this top is the removable straps. I can make 3 different looks by placing the straps in different ways and removing it all together!

 

High-waisted Shorts:

Pattern: Self-drafted
Details:

  • 1 inch waist band
  • Lapped zipper on left side seam
  • Button closure, with 2 buttons for waist adjustment
  • with bright yellow pom pom trimming
  • white organic cotton lining

Of course, a pair of high-waisted shorts is another staple for a 1950’s style summer wardrobe. To make the shorts stand out and to make sewing them a little more challenging/fun, I decided to add little pom pom trimmings around the hem. Pom poms always makes anything 100 times more fun!

Full Circle Skirt:

Pattern: Self-drafted
Details:

  • 1 inch waist band
  • 26 inches in length (just grazing my knee)
  • Hook closure
  • with plastic horsehair braid sewn into the hem

Plastic horsehair braid sewn following the steps in Gertie’s Ultimate Dress Book

This pineapple print fabric screams “summer!” and I thought that making a full circle skirt for a fun and flirty look was absolutely compulsory. I also wanted this holiday set to be something that could be worn comfortably at the beach, so I decided to use a horsehair braid around to hem so that the skirt will have a nice structure even when I am not wearing a petticoat underneath. I mean, it would be too hot to wear a petticoat to the beach right?

Peek-a-boo!

After making a skirt, a pair of shorts and the Simplicity 1426 top with removable straps, I still have sufficient yardage to make a simple top. But I’m thinking maybe that’s enough orange pineapple fabric for now. Ummm, I also still have another one of this same fabric but in sky blue.

Well, if you like pineapples as much as I do, stay tuned for more posts on some SWEET pineapple goodness on the blog in the next month or so!

xxx

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SEWN: 1950’s style Sunday Picnic Pullover Dress (Butterick 6212)

Butterick 6212 Gwenstella MadeI have always been a fan of the 1950’s walk-away dress ever since it was featured on The Great British Sewing Bee. When Butterick reproduced the pattern as B4790, I was disappointed to find that the smallest size offered by the pattern was size 8. I’m usually somewhere between sizes 4-6, and having to grade an unusual pattern like the walk-away dress would require more thinking than I would like.

The Walkaway Dress. Left: The re-issue. Right: The original (via Butterick site and Vintage Patterns Wikia)

The Saturday Morning Dress. Left: The re-issue. Right: The original (via Butterick site and Vintage Patterns Wikia)

So, when I found the B6212, a pullover back-wrap dress which is also another re-issue of a vintage 1950’s sewing pattern by Butterick, I knew I had to get it. Some sites and posts describe it as the “Popover Dress” or the “Saturday Morning” dress. I like both names, but it’s giving me more of a “Sunday Picnic” vibe. I was smittened by the white and red gingham version on the envelope of the pattern, and while I haven’t gone for a real picnic in years, I decided that it would be the perfect colour scheme for Chinese New Year.

Of course, as with all Big 4 sewing patterns (and the sad fact that I have almost non-existent boobs), I had to make some minor adjustments to the pattern before cutting the fabric pieces out. Most of the grading of the pattern involved the bodice. I didn’t make any adjustments to the width of the waist, because I thought I could always change the positions of the buttons to make a tighter fit if I wanted.

For the bodice of the dress, I used a white linen fabric I bought in Thailand some years back, and for the skirt portion, I used a polycotton in a red/white gingham pattern. For the buttons, I decided to make my own fabric-covered buttons using the same linen fabric I used for the bodice, to create contrast in the final look.

Unfortunately, the bodice was somehow still too baggy when I tried the dress on after sewing it together. There was too much room in front of the bust! I had to take in some fabric at the front of the bodice by making some fake vertical darts (ie folding the excess fabric inwards and then topstitching it in place).

There’s also some extra room in the underarm area which I could do nothing about. It’s a little annoying, but generally tolerable as I would be wearing a slip under the dress anyway. I think this is probably one of the biggest design flaw of the dress. I can’t imagine if having bigger or smaller bust will make this problem worse. On the bright side, at least my dress looks better than the one on the McCall site!

(via)

Despite the flaws in the design of the sewing pattern, I must say that this is a very easy pattern to sew. I love how it gives the illusion of a circle skirt without the usual yardage that is needed, since the back part of the dress is more like a shift dress. It could also probably be modified easily for an A-line skirt design!

Top: Front view. Bottom: Back view.

Making vertical faux darts on the front of the bodice

For anyone who is making this, I would strongly recommend adding the back-ties, because that allows the waist to be adjusted more easily. You know, sometimes the waist expands by an inch or so depending on how full or bloated you are!

Also, if you REALLY are thinking about making this dress, do a search and find out what others are saying about this dress. Some people really had issues with the underarms for this dress. Do your research and make an informed decision!

Have you made the Walkaway dress or this Saturday Morning dress? Are you a believer or a hater? Let me know your thoughts in the comments!

And now for the million-dollar question – who wore it better? The Butterick illustrated model or me?

SEWN: 1950’s style Lemon Drop Dress (Vogue 2902)

sewing gwenstella made vintage 1950's Vogue 2902

sewing gwenstella made vintage 1950's Vogue 2902

Summer is my favourite season. My fabric stash is usually made up of fresh prints and vivid colours made for summer, and nothing screams summer like this vintage 1950’s style lemon print fabric.

gwenstella made sewing vintage V2902

sewing gwenstella made vintage 1950's Vogue 2902

I have had this fabric in my stash for a few years, but I have never quite gotten around to making something with it… I think I had been waiting for the “right” pattern to come to me. When I bought the vintage reproduction pattern Vogue 2902 a few months ago, I knew it was the perfect pattern for this fabric. The bright lemon print needed something to “frame” it to make it stand out even more, and the contrasting band on the bodice for V2902 was just what I wanted.

(via)

As usual, I didn’t have sufficient yardage to reproduce the pattern in its entirety. This is not shocking news when you don’t buy fabric with a project in mind and end up deciding to make a dress with a full circle skirt! It was definitely disappointing initially, but I think my decision to replace the original design with a simple gathered skirt worked out beautifully as well.

I love that having a gathered skirt means there’s no pressure to wear a petticoat to give the dress the structure for a more authentic 1950’s look (as illustrated on the envelope). I have always wanted this dress to be a casual, vintage style summer dress anyway! But still, I didn’t want the skirt to be entirely… limp.

sewing vintage 1950's dress Vogue V2902

sewing gwenstella made vintage 1950's Vogue 2902

And so, I decided to add just a itty bitty bit of structure to the skirt with a lining that resembles a petticoat. Here’s how I cut the layers for the lining:

FullSizeRender

Making the lining

I could add more layers to add more volume, but I decided that 3 sections was sufficient. As a general rule, you would want the next layer to be 1.5 times the length of the previous layer.

sewing vintage 1950's dress Vogue V2902

Cutting the pieces to make the lining, with the skirt layered underneath for comparison of length

sewing vintage 1950's dress Vogue V2902

Sewing up the lining

I chose different colours for the layers of lining because:

1) I wanted a coordinating colour to show if my lining does peek out by accident
2) I was afraid that a completely blue lining might make the skirt look more blue or somehow just show under sunlight

sewing gwenstella made vintage 1950's Vogue 2902

Peek-a-boo!

Replacing a circle skirt in a pattern with a gathered skirt is such an easy hack, and I had so much fun adding a fun lining to the skirt for my dress. The design of the bodice for this dress is such a classic vintage look, I think I will continue to have fun hacking the pattern. How about a wiggle dress with this same bodice next? Let me know what you think about my version of the V2902 pattern in the comments below! xx

sewing vintage 1950's dress Vogue V2902